Crispy creaminess defines these fancy French-style cream puffs. The craquelin layer adds sweetness, texture and, best of all, ensures that the puffs rise with a perfect dome shape. The coconut cream filling and craquelin can be made a few days in advance, but the choux pastry should be made, baked and filled the day of serving. From Food and Drink Spring 2016.
CRAQUELIN
6 tbsp (90 mL) unsalted butter, at room temperature
5 tbsp (75 mL) packed light brown sugar
⅔ cup (150 mL) all-purpose flour
CHOUX PASTRY
½ cup (125 mL) milk
½ cup (125 mL) water
½ cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, cut into ½ inch (1 cm) pieces
1 tsp (5 mL) sugar
¼ tsp (1 mL) salt
1 cup plus 2 tbsp (250 plus 30 mL) all-purpose flour
4 to 5 eggs
COCONUT CREAM
½ cup (125 mL) sugar
3 tbsp (45 mL) flour
6 egg yolks
2¼ cups (560 mL) milk
3 tbsp (45 mL) unsalted butter
1½ cups (375 mL) sweetened shredded coconut
1½ cups (375 mL) whipping cream
¾ tsp (4 mL) vanilla extract
1 In a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter and sugar until light. Add the flour and continue to mix until the dough is smooth.
2 Place the dough between 2 sheets of parchment paper and roll it to be as thin as possible. Transfer the dough to a baking sheet and freeze until firm.
3 Place oven racks in the top and middle positions and preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
4 In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, water, butter, sugar and salt. Place over low-medium heat until the butter is fully melted. Raise the heat and bring the mixture to a full boil. Remove from heat and add the flour all at once. Stir immediately with a wooden spoon until the flour is fully incorporated. Place the pan back on medium heat and cook, stirring all the while, for 1 to 2 minutes. The mixture is ready when it congeals in a lump and begins to stick to the bottom of the pan.
5 Remove from heat and transfer the mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix the dough on medium speed for about 30 seconds to release some of the steam. Add the eggs one a time, mixing until each egg is incorporated. After adding 4 eggs, check the consistency of the dough. Stop the mixer and pull up the paddle. The dough is ready if it is smooth and shiny, and hangs down in a “V” shape. If the dough is too stiff, whisk the remaining egg to break it up and beat it into the dough bit by bit until the proper consistency is achieved.
6 Transfer the dough to a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch (1-cm) round tip. Fill the bag about halfway and pipe mounds of dough about 1½ inches (4 cm) in diameter, spacing them about 1½ inches (4 cm) apart. You should have 20 to 24 in all.
7 Remove the craquelin dough from the freezer and let it stand a minute or 2 until it is just soft enough to cut. Using a round cookie cutter, about the same diameter of the puffs, cut out circles of the dough and set them on top of the puffs, pushing down very gently.
8 Place in the oven and bake until the puffs rise and begin to brown, about 15 to 18 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 325°F (160°C) and continue baking until the puffs are completely dry and golden brown, about 25 to 30 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.
9 For extra crispness, cut the cooled puffs with a serrated knife, just below the craquelin line. Place cut-side up on the baking sheets and return to the 325°F (160°C) oven for another 5 to 10 minutes. Cool completely before filling.
10 For the coconut cream, combine the sugar and flour in a medium bowl and whisk in the egg yolks, making sure the mixture is smooth. In a medium saucepan, bring the milk to a boil. Stir half the milk into the egg mixture then pour the whole mixture back into the pan. Cook over medium-high heat, whisking constantly until the mixture boils and thickens. Continue cooking and whisking for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in the butter, followed by the shredded coconut. Pour the coconut cream into a bowl, cover the surface directly with plastic wrap and chill completely.
11 Just before assembling the cream puffs, whip the cream and vanilla to stiff peaks and place into a piping bag fitted with a decorative star tip. Place 1 heaping tbsp (15 mL plus) of coconut cream into the bottom of each pastry puff. Pipe a layer of whipped cream over top and finish with the craquelin-covered lid. The puffs can be filled and refrigerated for up to 4 hours.